Paris: River and Boulevard 2

The rain was beating down on me as I passed the Trocadero and headed uphill through the swanky Rue de Magdebourg neighborhood.  There was nobody else silly enough to continue to tromp through the torrential rain that I could see.  Finally, I decided to shelter under a chestnut tree which blocked out at least some of the water.  A few moments later, a nice older lady [walking a dog] stopped and asked me if I were lost and if I needed any help.  I told her I was engaged in my premier voyage a' Paris and that it was a wonderful day.  She gave me a sad smile and nodded, heading off down hill.  Or down stream, as it were.

I made the Avenue Kleber and turned northeast toward the Arc de Triomphe.  I planned to stroll down the Champs Elysees from there to a long lunch at Fouquet's but I was too cold, too damp and too hungry.  I stopped at the Fleurus, a small cafe on the Avenue Kleber where I could sit outside under an awning and have a classic Croque Monsieur and a Kronenbourg draft beer...

It was a very nice break and a lovely lunch, even with the continuing rain.  The Fleurus is a great cafe run by a cute young couple and the food and service are very good.  A video about the Fleurus Cafe can be seen here.  The next time I visit Paris I plan to return to the Fleurus on a sunny day to enjoy a nice leisurely cafe meal.  Feeling fully restored, and with a momentary letup in the rain, I pressed on toward the Place Charles de Gaulle.  Passing by banks, embassies, and other addresses of note, I was almost to my destination when an Italian man stopped his car and asked me if I wanted to buy some designer suits.  I told him that I was certainly too big to wear designer Italian suits sold from a car and he drove off looking disappointed.

Then, I was at the top of the Champs Elysees...

the Arc de Trionphe is a striking and moving monument.  The rain began again in earnest...I did my best to stroll, not slog, down the Champs, fortified by my fine lunch...just like that fellow in the Joni Mitchell song...

I was tempted to slide into Fouquet's and have a second luncheon......but I just didn't feel dressed well enough and I looked a bit like a wet rat.  I put it on my "another day" list and stroll/slogged on...

Almost got killed to bring you that last shot of Les Invalides.  Not a good idea to stand in the middle of a boulevard.  Those little cars can close on your location very rapidly.  I entered the Place de la Concorde where the Obelisk of Luxor is counter posed with the Tour Eiffel...

A fountain where the guillotine used to be...

The glorious Hotel Crillon...

...and an unexpected historical marker that made me proud to be a Yank...

..finally I found myself in the Tuleries as the weather began to clear and a very lovely evening approached...

I love a garden where a section is devoted to statues of naked nymphs...

 

At this point, the light was failing and it occurred to me that a cup of hot chocolate would be proper.  I decided to make my third [and final] run at Cafe Angelina, not far from The Louvre on the Rue de Rivoli.  The return reader may recall that my previous attempts to have the renowned hot chocolate at Cafe Angelina had ended in frustration and disaster.  I was on a quest imposed upon me by a pal who insisted that I go to Cafe Angelina for hot chocolate on my first Paris trip.  I gave it another run...

...and I actually got in and got a table!!! Although the cafe looks small when you come in it is actually pretty cavernous and rather dark inside.  It was full of happy looking diners, however, and I counted myself lucky to be among them.  I ordered the famous hot chocolate and a raspberry pastry.  They were both astounding.  The bring the chocolate in a silver pot with a separate pot of heavy creme and you stir the creme into the chocolate or pour them both together...just the aroma of the chocolate and the creme are enough to make you weak.  If you like such things...

oh, and the raspberry pastry was pretty and a towering achievement of the patissier's art...

...you find it so pretty you don't want to eat it.  But you do anyhow.  The macaron cake was flavored with roses and strawberry, the raspberries were fresh and perfectly sweet/tart and inside there was a tiny layer of lavender cream.  It was like eating a Monet painting of a field of flowers.  With raspberries.  And chocolate and creme.  There aren't many places that I will say were worth three attempts to visit, but Cafe Angelina is one of them. 

After this lovely break in the soaking day, I found that the rain had stopped again and I walked home to the Isl Saint-Louis for a nap, a bath, and a change of clothes.  Of course, I woke up hungry but not interested in doing much exploring after my day of wandering.  I recalled a great article by Herbert Gold which mentioned the Brasserie de St. Louis en L'Isl.  He told of its fine Alsatian food and fair prices.  It was about a block from my hotel so I decided to give it a try.  As I was walking in the door I heard a British voice behind me saying to his companions "I used to come here almost every day when I was living here during school".  A good omen.  Plus, it just looked like a great place...

I ordered a bottle of Bordeaux and scanned the menu.  This was a very reasonably priced bottle which was outstanding...

As you can tell, the menu is classic and diverse.  I began with an onion tart which was quite good.  Then, I thought I would branch out a bit.  I asked the waiter what "Jarret de porc" was.  He leaned over and made a cutting motion with his hand over his lower calf.  Hm.  Shin?  Then it dawned on me. Where I live, they call it a "ham hock".  I had to have it, in Paris.  But first a little Welsh Rarebit...

Marvelous tangy cheese fondue poured over crusty baguette.  Just perfect with the Chateau Greysac and a shield against the cold, rainy night.  Then the Jarret arrived.  Broiled with house made apple sauce.  This simple Alsatian dish was a triumph.  The pork was tender and flavorful with a wood-fire cooked taste that went perfectly with the slightly tart apples.  The Medoc rose to new heights as a companion to this hearty fare...

I do not know why I fail to take so many photos of dishes I love until I have consumed them!  Probably because the great food distracts me.  This was just a marvelous meal.  I thought for some minutes of dessert but they were out of Baba Au Rhum [one of my list of Paris "must haves"] and I was still basking in the glow of my sweets from Angelina so I paid my [very modest] tab and slipped out into the near frigid night.  Off to see my new friends at the Pledge Bar for a Calvados or two before bed.  The barman at The Pledge saw me enter, waved, and reached for the Calvados bottle. The close of another perfect day of adventure.